Damir Doma Silent SS ’12 –  with most capsule collections you sort of see elements streaming through from the mainline collection and with Damir it is slightly noticeable in both this and previous collections. In my current position I am fortunate enough to have a look at collections way before they are out and this gives time to compare collections. I have done a lot of comparing and Damir’s Silent is pretty much way ahead and one of those honest collections producing fine garments and not holding back. For me Silent and Damir Doma mainline are just like two brands competing against each other, if you removed either ones labels I doubt anyone would be able to tell the difference between the two fantastic lines.

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“I had the great chance to work with a phenomenon like Mr Newton. I met him when I was fashion editor at Vogue Italia and had the chance to work with him on a story. I remember he was watching me during the shoot and he felt my obsession: he said to me, ‘You are a fashion maniac! If you are a fashion maniac, you will be a professional’. He was right – I cannot sleep if I can’t find the right thing for a shoot.  This kind of obsession makes a difference in our job – it’s a 24-hour job. He was obsessed with everything, he noticed every detail. If he didn’t like the clothes, he would send them back; he was so demanding. He would say, “No way, this is not the story I was talking about.” But with me, luckily, he was always so, so happy. Because before each shoot, I would research for two weeks. I remember for a silver story, I came with a silver bed, a silver motorbike and he thought it was pretty good. One day, he wanted to take a picture of me. He said, ‘Go back home and get the long, black coat’. I went home, got the coat by Yohji Yamamoto. Then he told me to smoke. That was the first picture of me – it was an androgynous moment. I would always wear flat shoes and androgynous clothes. I learnt so much from working with him. He was fascinated by the two extremes – androgynous, fierce and severe but also camp. He was obsessed by this touch of crassness – long red nails, he loved tacky things. I like this mix of fierce, tacky, fashion – sometimes it was so elegant, and sometimes it was elegant and trashy.”

Mysterious, alluring, divinely decadent, sometimes a little bit cruel and androgynous, yet always entirely in control and defiant – these are the qualities possessed by the women of Helmut Newton’s provocative, erotically charged photographs. But they can also apply to the Italian fashion editor and internet celebrity, Anna Dello Russo, who not only worked with the legendary photographer, but was a subject for him. Nowadays better known for her high-octane theatricality and straight-from-the-runway looks; when she first met Newton working as a fashion editor at Vogue Italia in the nineties, she was by her own admission, “dressing like a man”. Working together on fashion shoots, Newton was struck by her dedication to her craft, describing her as a “fashion maniac”, a quote now proudly displayed on her blog. She may be prone to gnomic pronunciations like “You need to take a fashion shower and then you’ll wake up” or “Fashion is a muse – you must seduce her”, but there’s no denying that Newton hit it on the mark with his comment – her overriding passion comes from a heartfelt place. This image of Dello Russo taken by Newton in 1996 represents not only the first shot of Dello Russo (preceding the blogger explosion by a decade) but also shows a different aspect of the fashion icon. Following a talk at the V&A hosted by Peroni Collaborazioni, she shared with AnOther her memories of working with him.

Text by Kin Woo

It pains me to re-blog others posts but when they are as solid as this, why not. I’ll be the first one to say I never really understood the hype that surrounded Dello Russo. However,  by seeing this side to her she’s gained another follower. A woman rocking a long Yamamoto coat, what’s not to love?

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I received this in the post yesterday, there’s something rather satisfying about receiving letters at work, the envelope is the key feature, your name and job title are printed with it being a constant reminder of what exactly it is you do for a living. Our days in Paris back in January were the most intense I’ve ever known them, appointments didn’t seem to be in their usual places meaning the metro was our most used source of transport. Because of this we unfortunately had to miss out on collections, Stephan Schneider being one of them. Kevin actually introduced me to the label a while ago and it’s been something I return to and admire every season. I’m picking up more on the presentation of the lookbook this time round, I have a small obsession with collecting them. The stack of Dries one’s I have hidden away starting from early 90’s to current day are solid and still no one seems to top them! The glossy finishes of this particular SS12 offering actually felt substantial and some what luxurious, it’s one that needs to be thrown around and shared. As well as the introduction of the digital ivy creating a direct link to the title of the collection it’s a subtle touch that really brings out the garments against that off-white/eggshell background that is shown throughout. Here at AREWU we are avid fans of invitations, I dread to think about the amount of invites that were discarded of during the recent London Fashion Week. The cut out fabric that is situated next to the lookbook in the first image is actually an invite to Schneider’s AW12 women’s collection. It created a sense of excitement just to find out where exactly that pattern is going to fit within that collection – I shall be waiting in anticipation!

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I guess it is pretty evident that i am currently going through a Hedi moment with a second instalment on the mans great work. This time we go way back, looking at a collection he did for YSL in 1998-1999. For me looking back at this collection was sort of a way to pin point how forward thinking Slimane was. I mean for example, check out the sleeveless cashmere knit similar to Raf Simmons SS11 sleeveless crew with the zip on the back. Cropped bomber jackets must also be back in especially after Acne and Calvin Klein dropped a few pieces with the chop for this summer. One of my favourite looks from this show is the leopard print over coat teamed up with black,  wouldn’t wear it personally but I think it captures the true essence of YSL – in my opinion breaking the rules.

I guess what I am trying to say here is that nothing is new underneath the sun and great design is classic design. Here Hedi has looked back to the roots of YSL and played around with timeless staple pieces and flipped them  into his own interpretation of sports-class.

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I’m sat down writing this whilst situated on a direct train to London. After possibly one of the longest weeks I’ve encountered I need nothing more than to listen to re-edits and take my mind off everything else with this post. There is only one word to describe my hectic four days in Paris – Productive. From showroom to showroom everything was being bought of a solid standard, a standard that I was excited about. Having never visited the Rick Owens showroom before this season, you could say I’d been misled with stories of a dark location with dried blackberries and showroom staff covered in charcoal. I got the opposite but showed no disappointment. The front door opened and we were bombarded with a fast paced working environment, the sound of Geobasket’s running around on the stone floor, the smell of Mad Et Len candles burning and some strong solid looks on some of these buyers behalves. The collection as a whole was strong, we bought it as a mixture of staples that venture into a few more diverse items – with it being a first proper season with Rick we need to see the true reaction both online and in store. Under the guidance of the young lady who assisted us in the showroom we couldn’t go wrong. She was clued up beyond belief, her stories of visiting Paris to buy collections such as Demeulemeester at the tender age of six with her mother blew me away. She’s been buying for the family owned store located in Mallorca for years and definitely one to watch out for. We were rushed for time so I do apologise for the lack of images, I’m feeling the first snap right about now it’s an unexpected portrait that came out surprisingly clean with a good wash of muted colours. Onto the footwear, I can’t fault it, it’s strong every season. The classic sneaker is something I’ve said ill cop twice a year, I can’t say I’ve stuck to my word on that one yet but when I’m in the position to I will. I’ll finish on the Geobasket’s, I can remember seeing them years ago and finding myself besotted with them, even now having seen both men and women rock them non stop on my travels its safe to say they stand the test of time.

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Please find attached a short clip by The Sartorialist, a sort of taster for what is to come in the very near future. I was wondering how long it was going to take before street style photography took the leap from just being stills to motion. This is something I have been looking forward to for a long time! It is all good having a still but take for example the fine suiting of the Italian men above. You want to see how that scarf moves with the body and with the wind blowing. I have always said, clothes look nice folded, but even better in motion, taking example from Damir Doma and Yohji Yamamoto who both create garments that work with the elements to create a dramatic performance.

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Commonwealth Projects is pleased to present this documentation of Hedi Slimane’s California Song. The self-commissioned video project was filmed over the course of the exhibition’s opening week. It includes footage of the opening night, No Age’s rehearsal for their performance, billboards featuring Hedi’s photographs across LA, and the artwork in the show. The film includes the same original No Age soundtrack as featured in the installation at MOCA Pacific Design Center.

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Please find attached a selection of images from Needless spring summer 2012 collection. All looks are pretty much what or how I would buy the collection. There are the obvious military and workwear elements seeping through, key elements some might say are ‘on trend’ but for me it’s all about how the garment looks after however long of wearing. This line is to be noted as “REBUILD BY NEEDLESS”  as most of the garments are from reclaimed dead stock pants, jackets and coats all to give them a new life as a new garment. Some of the garments have also been subject to a traditional (sustainable) mud dye/Amami Oshima for a cured finish that gives each garment and individual look and personality.


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Spring summer 2012 is now in full effect or shall I say Yohji is now landing in a few stores. It was only a few months ago that we were conversing about this collection over the live show updates on ‘Nowness’. I will have to say, the runway swagger of Yohji Yamamoto is second to none as Yohji transforms a diverse register of models into samurai warriors. I’m talking – the european models in the show looked like ninjas! This called to mind a passage in his book ‘My dear bomb’ where he states that his work is a reminder or sort of a portal to ones childhood past. The connection for me is a bit cliché but I am a big samurai film fan with one of my favorites being Zatoichi, a film about a Yakuza gang war and a blind swordsman go and watch it.

For me everything in this collection was to like, a few fashionistas have said it was quite repetitive but I say otherwise. Yohji to me is layers and width. The baggy relaxed comfy look is what signifies Yohji’s style. He has mastered comfort and utility through a vast knowledge and experience with fabrics combined with technicality.

To conclude, I will say Yohji continues to transform my view on fashion through the following of Japanese aesthetic of skirt-like pants, jumbo pleated pants and off-course the signature black skirt and white shirt towards the end all things that may not necessarily be new under the sun but definitely reincarnated in the name of Yohji.


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Ann Demeulemeester, an undeniable favourite here at AREWU. I can’t quite sum up the feeling of stumbling across something as solid as these scans. ENCENS is a magazine with the backing of creative minded stylist, Samuel Drira and Sybille Walter. I need to somehow get my grips on some back issues because the content is nothing short of amazing. Although these scans are large it’s proving difficult to read but I recommend giving it a shot. Take the time out to open the images and absorb how strong of an editorial feature this is. Also, what’s Demeulemeester’s secret to such a flawless face?

Watch out for more posts on Samuel Drira [a new found hero] this week.

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