Helmut Lang to me is underrated. Maybe he’s done his time and that’s why people choose not to hype about him but along with RAF he was ahead of his time. He was known for his subtle yet often severe designs but each piece is as sustainable as they come. I know this as I’ve been fortunate enough to accumulate a selection of items from older colleagues who used to work with the label over 16 years ago. There’s a timeless feel everytime I rock one of these item’s and I’m able to wear them all with what I wear now, which I find remarkable. People may get the same feeling when purchasing something from a vintage retailers but I’m not sure this is just straight archive.
This is my most recent acquirement from on online auction site. It’s from the AW03 collection which is shown in the campaign images above. Zip’s were a massive element used throughout that collection with detachable and re-wearable garments changing the face of things to come, I think that’s what drew my attention to this. That extended zip just isn’t realistically necessary but it’s that same extended zip that excites me inside. With it’s stealth appearance it doesn’t look that functional but it’s deceiving with it’s down liner it allows one to brave the elements to a certain extent of course. One simple feature I do like on it is the hidden pocket on the back, which is able to be used at the back or flipped to the front to create an inside left hand side pocket. Overall an amazing piece, which will still be with me in another 16 years to come.
The rest of these pieces are now dating back to 1995, possibly even before that. The image on the right shows one of my favourite pieces, which is still yet to be rocked. I slipped it on this evening after taking these snaps and it falls like a dream and the way it sits when open is more than I could have asked for. Now, camel coats as we all know made some mad revival last year with the prep boys blogging and jumping all over overcoats. Unlike these boys my earliest memories were of my Grandads, which was purchased from House Of Fraser a good 20 years ago and is still looking neoteric to this day. He draws for it on family occasions and it’s like his show piece and that’s what I love. I want to be able to rock this as long as he has owned his but it needs to be put together in the most unconventional and astonishing way ever. I see it being put together with some Sasquatchfabrix shorts and Ayame leggings. Yes.
These final images show two staple pieces that can be pulled out whenever. First up on the left is a mainline Cashmere V-Neck knit that was given to me. It’s a solid piece. The colour is perfect and can be rocked as simple as you wish, I’m still trying to think of the perfect combination when it comes to rocking it but it’s going to have to all come down to some layering with the neck as simple as possible, nothing showing. I went through a faze a good few years ago where I would just purchase V-Neck knits without any thought as to where and when I would wear them, looking back they must of looked abominable with the 11″ tapered trousers I was loving oh so much then. However the neck on this is tighter and less revealing than your common V-Neck so all is blessed and I can stop myself from visualising those dark times I spoke of when I slip it on.
Now the shirt situated on the left was from Lang’s Jeans Collection. Unlike something like Paul Smith Jeans this is still solid. I’ve got a few pieces from this collection such as cropped crew neck jumpers and then a light long sleeve top with a rectangular arm patch detail, which shows an influence from the later mainline items. The corduroy shirt sits cropped where I personally think it would sit a lot better with an elongated back, which was seen on a beautiful shirt from Haversack a couple of seasons ago. See, one aspect I like about this shirt is that fact that it’s simply been worn and in doing so it has lost that Lang minimalistic look and gained character with curled collars and fading labels but with the ‘Produced In 1997’ still holding on.